Regarded as technically very challenging on all possible routes, Kusum Kanguru is an impressive rock and ice peak, which forms the border between the Dudhkosi in the south and Hinku Valley to the north. Its name originating in Sherpa language means the Three Snow-White Gods. This climb is suggested only for participants who have enough alpine mountaineering experience.
The North Ridge is approached from Monjo on the trail to Namche Bazaar. From base camp ascend steep grass and screed and finally a ramp leading to the ridge proper.
The approach to the South East Face is from the Hinku valley side. From Lukla the base camp can be reached in 5 days. The ascent route to the main summit is through the South East Face. With a base camp at 4360m, two or three high camps are required to complete the climb.
Kusum Khanguru Peak Climbing Itinerary
Days 01 : Arrival at Kathmandu, transfer to hotel.
Days 02 : Sight seeing around Kathmandu valley
Days 03 : Fly to Lukla & trek to Phakding
Days 04 : Trek to Namche Bazaar
Days 05 : Acclimatization at Namche Bazaar
Days 06 : Trek to Base camp
Days 07 : Trek to Base camp
Days 08-15 : Climbing period
Days 16-17 : Trek back to Namche Bazaar
Days 18 : Trek to Lukla
Days 19 : Fly back to Kathmandu